Mwanza is one of Tanzania’s biggest surprises! Not well known to the international public, it is the second biggest city in the country after Dar-es-Salaam and the biggest urban area situated on the Lake Victoria.
It takes only 2 hours or so to get to the Serengeti, and frequent flights from Dar, Arusha and Nairobi make it a perfect place to start a safari – whether it’s the classic Northern Circuit route, or Rubondo, or Gombe, or even…Rwanda!
There is another attractive side to Mwanza, though – one that is rather underappreciated. It is Mwanza itself: as a place, a city, a cultural-mix and finally, a beautiful holiday spot.
The list of the city and the region’s interesting sites is rather long. What we present here is a good start-off base, and whether you’re in Mwanza for a bit longer or literally just for a day, you’ll definitely find something to do.
Markets of Mwanza
Mlango Moja – Second Hand Clothes Market
Vintage shopping has recently come back in vogue in many countries these days. But here in Mwanza, we’ve always had our second-hand clothes (mitumba) market to look forward to for a spot of retail therapy!
The market is centrally located, close to the Agha Khan Mosque, which is a super-busy area.
Whether you’re looking for the global sports brands of Nike and Adidas or the more glamorous Chanel and Gucci, you’re sure to find something for yourself at the market stalls.
The market is a pretty big place, with specially designated areas for shoes, jeans, t-shirts, handbags and even curtains. Just make sure you prepare yourself for lots of haggling, and never settle for the given price!
And try not to buy back the same pair of shoes you donated to charity just last year!!
Fish Market
With Mwanza’s main international export being fish, you can’t leave the city without seeing the fish being brought in fresh off the local fishing boats and straight to the market.
The market has recently been built by the Japanese, to better serve the fishermen of Mwanza. One can often see locally built boats moored by the side of the market, whilst the obvious fishy smell can help you locate where the market is!
But be wary, that this is in fact part of the livelihood of many people, and not simply a tourist site. So be overly cautious of appearing to be too touristy!
Sokoni
Sokoni means “a marketplace”, and – simple as it is – this name fully reflects the important role it plays in the city’s everyday life. It is, no doubts, the largest and most popular shopping site of Mwanza.
It is definitely worth visiting for two main reasons. Firstly, nowhere else but here will you get to observe the local people shopping and socializing over big heaps of mangos, avocados and pineapples. And if this alone turns out not to be a good enough excuse to leave the hotel and head into the city centre, this one has to convince even the laziest of tourists: they have everything here! Whether you’re looking for food, spices, drums, fertility masks, kangas or Masaai jewellery – this is the place to buy it!
Walking around the market can be a lot of fun, but only if you watch out for your bag and acknowledge the fact that this is not a museum and pictures of products and people should not be taken without permission.
Be prepared for some hassle and remember that the initial price almost always contains a 300% tourist-surcharge and should never be agreed to. Bargaining is the way to go! Big smile on your face and a couple of Swahili phrases are your allies and should limit the haggle time to a necessary minimum. Remember – it is worth it! This is not a tourist-place at all, which means that whatever you buy here will almost definitely be much cheaper than in Arusha, Dar or Zanzibar. You can get a lot of really nice crafts here for very little money. A good option for souvenir-hunting – most things are actually made in Tanzania, not China.
Bismarck Rock
A geological balancing rock formation, probably left by eons of wind and wave erosion. The Bismarck rock has come to picture as the symbol of Mwanza. Located in the waterfront by the Kamanga ferry harbour, it has come to be the Sunday evening meeting spot for many locals, as they wave goodbye to the setting sun.
Historically, the name conjures up an image of the ‘iron man’ himself, Otto Eduard Leopold Von Bismarck (1815-1898), the Chancellor of the German Empire in 1871. Rightly so, as Mwanza was part of the German East African territory, and a large statue of Bismarck himself, who was also the foreign minister, was said to be erected on the rock.
When the British took over after World War One, the statue was pulled down, and is still said to be swimming with the fishes somewhere around the outcrop. But the name stuck!
You can have a bit of a wander around the area, with the local courts and old post office round the corner. And the Chinese waterfront restaurant on the other side.
Kamanga Ferry
Some of us can’t afford a $100/hour lake cruise, but not to worry, we have the kamanga ferry to look forward to! The port of departure for the ferry is right next to the Bismarck Rock, and the ferry takes about an hour to reach Kamanga on the other side of the visible bays. It makes for a very picturesque journey, with the bustling fish market area on one side, the famous Capri Point displaying the stunning and ambitious houses of the rich on the other side, and pure natural beauty in the distance.
The ferry leaves every hour and it keeps going till 6pm. But remember, the numbered timings on display on the board outside are Swahili time, so 7am is shown as 1am, and so on and so forth.
The ferry is not simply for tourists, and you’ll be sharing the boat with lots of local people going to work or just for a day-trip visiting relatives.
Once you’re on the other side, you can pay for the journey back and stay on the boat, or get off and enjoy a soda in one of the local bandas and watch the crowds of people as they await the return of the next ferry.
Isamilo
Isamilo is a picturesque neighbourhood located a short-drive or walk away from the city centre. Noted for it’s extensive greenery, as well as its quaint position in a valley surrounded by the usual boulder-strewn hills of Mwanza.
A discovery atop one of these hills changed and enlightened the course of our world history and heritage. On the morning of the 3rd of August 1858, John Hanning Speke discovered the source of the Nile, in what was then known as Lake Nyanza.
In 1856, Speke and Richard Burton had set sail to look for the great lakes, which were believed to be centrally located on the continent. But Burton fell ill by Lake Tanganyika, leaving Speke to move on and discover what he later christened as ‘Lake Victoria’, in honour of his Queen.
Although Speke’s claims of discovering the source of the Nile remained controversial for some time, in retrospect we can see that moment as the culmination of centuries of speculation by Europeans about the river’s source. It was also the beginning of the next phase in European involvement, providing a new reason to visit Africa, and setting in motion a process of ‘opening’ the continent to the rest of the world.
Some of the focal points in Isamilo include the International School and the Medical Research centre, both located side by side. There is also the local watering-hole know as the ‘Dosh Pub’ which offers stunning views of Mwanza, whilst you sip some local brew.
A natural phenomenon can be seen every evening, with the sunset as a backdrop, one can watch hundreds of huge birds circle the sky, as they swoop, glide and hover before they settle down for the night.
The newly constructed Isamilo Lodge is also well worth a visit, again, especially for its views of the city and the Lake, so you too can catch a glimpse of what Speke once saw!
MV Bukoba Monument
Probably the worst tragedy to hit Mwanza in it’s recent modern history. MV Bukoba was a passenger steamer that sank in Lake Victoria on May 21st 1996, 30 kilometres away from Mwanza. Up to 800 people died in the disaster, as the capacity of the steamer was only 430. The lack of equipment and divers were partially to blame for the death toll, but rescue teams from South Africa and elsewhere were flown in to salvage what was left of the ship and it’s people, which had sunk 25metres under water. It is said, that Abu Ubaidah al-Banshiri, who was at the time second in command of the Al Qaeda organization also died in the accident.
A monument was later erected on a site looking over parts of the lake, where the boat had sunk. The monument is located in a fairly remote area, outside Bwiru.
What probably attracts visitors the most, are the panoramic views of the hilly city of Mwanza. Surrounded by rocky outcrops and boulder-strewn hills, and the shimmering lake in front of you, the spot makes for a good place to meditate on the busy lifestyles many of us live.
After a small hike up to the monument, and maybe another one down to the beach, there is a nicely located ‘banda’ for some cooling refreshments before you head back to the city.
Dancing Rocks
Located within a 5-minute drive from the monument are the dancing rocks. One of Mwanza’s many hidden natural secrets, the dancing rocks are hidden behind the tarmac road of Bwiru, and are fairly difficult to find. But once you come across them, it’s a sight to behold. On a very large hill of granite rock, are some interestingly shaped boulders of many sizes, situated all across the large platform of granite. The name ‘dancing rocks’ explains what you see once you get there, the boulders look like they are on a ball room dance floor, as they jive, foxtrot and sashe on their ancient platform.
After a bit of a hike and a little trawling through the long grass, you may even come upon the hidden cave beneath the hill!
Peripheral Nature Walks
Characterized by its rocky hills and rich fauna and flora, the region of Mwanza is a great destination for those who enjoy nature and nature-related activities. Within half an hour from the city centre, unspoilt nature welcomes everyone who’s willing to sheer off the beaten track.Leaving the city by its main southbound route, Kenyatta Road, you will be driving along what is one of the longest bays of Lake Victoria. Once out of the urban zone, any moment is good for an off-road detour towards the waterfront. A good example is Luchelele, most convenient to reach via the new University compound, off the tarmac road and further straight on, towards the lake. This scarcely populated area offers breathtaking views of Lake Victoria, accompanied by vervet monkeys and flocks of marabou storks. You don’t have to be exceedingly lucky to meet the king of this area – the African fish eagle.Good shoes are a must on this trip – you may want to track up one of the rocky hills to get the best view of the bay. And bring food with you – shops and cafes are rather difficult to come across in this area, and the idea of picnicking in such a stunning surrounding is hard to resist.
Saanane
Upon being given the status of the national park, Saanane took over from Gombe National Park as the smallest national park of Tanzania. It is also the only park situated within a city agglomeration and only second in the country to cover the entire island.Saanane is easy to access by boat. The park authorities are located where the tarmac of Station Street turn into dirt-road, opposite the train station in Mwanza. Here, you can pay the entrance fee of $50 per person and request a boat to take you onto the island. The boat-ride takes under 10 minutes and one could say it would be easier to swim.Once in the Park, you will enjoy it. It is really calm here and the views of Mwanza are probably the best you can get.Saanane used to be a zoo – the first one in Tanzania. Established in 1964, it was the main reason of different species being brought to the island. These included: Buffalo, Bushbuck, Dik Dik, Elephant, Eland.
Bujora Sukuma Museum
Situated within the Bujora parish grounds near Kissesa, the Sukuma Museum is dedicated to the culture and history of the Sukuma, Tanzania’s most populous tribe. Father David Clement established it in the 1950s in collaboration with a Sukuma committee with primary intent of preserving this culture for local visitors.
It consists of five discrete pavilions or buildings, each of which is devoted to a particular aspect of Sukuma culture. Most impressive is the Royal Pavilion, a two-storey building housing a vast collection of royal Sukuma thrones, crowns and tribal drums. The colourful Bujora Church incorporates large elements of Sukuma royal symbolism into its design, for instance an altar shaped like a traditional throne. The Witch-Doctor enclosure is a must-see, with all the traditional implements on display, including three huge live pythons in a cage!
Kageye
If you’re really interested in the history of Victorian explorers, and the impact of their findings on the continent, then Kageye is definitely the place to go.
The ‘Daily Telegraph’ of London, and ‘The New York Herald’ chose to sponsor Henry Morton Stanley, (who had just returned from Africa after finding Dr. Livingstone) to go back on an expedition to prove that Lake Nyanza (Victoria) was in fact the source of the Nile. On the 17th of November 1874, with 356 people, and two brothers of the Pocock family as well as Frederick Barker, the company journeyed from Zanzibar to Kageye in 103 days.
Stanley had taken with him a boat in sections called ‘Lady Alice’, which he assembled on the shore at Kageye and set sail for Ripon Falls on 8th March 1875. His mission was to circumnavigate the entire lake, so that it could be proved that the same lake Speke had seen, was connected to Ripon Falls where the lake flowed into the Nile.
On Stanley’s return, he discovered that Frederick Barker as well as five porters, had died from dysentery, including Mabruki, who had served under Livingstone, Speke and Burton. He buried them there at Kageye.
A few years later, in 1877 a Christian mission was set up by Kageye, unfortunately one of the missionaries Dr. John Smith died there as well. His grave can also be found at the site.
Kageye also had a somewhat unfortunate history, as many parts of the continent at the time. It was a main port for slaves passing through from Buganda and Ukerewe. Luckily, the missionaries in the area rescued many of the Sukuma slaves. But it is an important part of the history of such a small place.
Kageye is about 40kms from Mwanza, but because the roads are so bad, it takes about an hour and a half to get there. There is a beautiful sandy beach, with lush shady trees in the background, perfect for a Sunday family picnic. Some people even venture in for a swim in the lake, as it is claimed that there is no bilharzia in the area.
It’s also a shame that one can venture down to Kageye, and never know anything about the history of the area, as there are no commemorative plaques or historical guides!
Butiama
A smallish village, with an estimated 16,000 inhabitants, Butiama is located almost 200km out of Mwanza city. Revered by Tanzanians, as the birth and burial place of the ‘Father of the Nation’, Mwalimu (teacher) Julius Kambarage Nyerere. He was the first President of Tanzania, known for bringing independence to the country through peaceful means.
The Butiama museum and Nyerere’s mausoleum, is probably the focal point of a visit here. The museum was opened, by the then Prime Minister Sumaye on July 2nd 1999, Nyerere himself attended the opening. It houses several artifacts and descriptions related to Nyerere, including; items received in his struggle for independence, gifts given to him during his presidency and personal farm instruments used on his farm in Butiama.
The Wazanaki tribe inhabits the region, noted for being the smallest tribe in the area and more famously for producing the first President of Tanzania!
Butiama is located close to the Ndabaka entrance to the Serengeti, so it is best visited before or after a safari through the parks, from Mwanza. It can also be visited as a one-day tour from Mwanza, with perhaps a lunch stop at Serengeti Stop-Over or Speke Bay Lodge.